Roopkund: My Unforgettable Trek to Skeleton Lake
I’m still not sure how to describe Roopkund. It’s not just a trek—it’s a portal to another world, one where mystery, beauty, and a touch of the eerie collide in the heart of the Indian Himalayas. At 15,750 feet, Roopkund, or Skeleton Lake as it’s famously called, isn’t your typical “let’s go hiking” destination. It’s a place where ancient bones whisper stories of a long-forgotten tragedy, and every step feels like you’re unraveling a secret. This trek changed me, and I want to take you along for the ride—my muddy boots, racing heart, and all.
The Journey Begins: Getting to Roopkund
The adventure kicked off in Lohajung, a tiny village in Uttarakhand that feels like it’s holding onto the edge of the earth. Getting there was half the fun. I caught a shared taxi from Kathgodam (the nearest railway station, about 210 km away), and let me tell you, that drive was a love letter to the Himalayas. Picture this: winding roads hugged by pine forests, rivers glinting like silver threads, and valleys so green they almost hurt your eyes. I had my face pressed against the window like a kid, sipping masala chai at a roadside stall, the kind where the steam curls up and mixes with the mountain mist. If you’re flying in, aim for Pantnagar or Dehradun’s Jolly Grant Airport. Either way, the journey to Lohajung sets the stage for what’s to come.
The Trek: Six Days of Awe and Aching Legs
The Roopkund trek is a 53-km round trip, best done in May–June or September–October when the weather plays nice (mostly). Here’s how my six-day odyssey unfolded:
- Day 1: Lohajung to Didna
The trail starts with a cheeky mix of ups and downs, like the mountains are testing your resolve. By the time I stumbled into Didna, my calves were staging a protest, but the villagers’ warm smiles and a sky full of stars made it all fade away. I sat by a bonfire, swapping stories with my trekking group, feeling like I’d already won. - Day 2: Didna to Bedni Bugyal
If I could bottle one memory from this trek, it’d be Bedni Bugyal. This alpine meadow is straight out of a dream—endless waves of green under a sky so big it makes you feel small in the best way. I woke up at 5 a.m., teeth chattering, just to catch the sunrise. The way the first light painted the peaks gold? I forgot how to blink. Bring your camera, but don’t let the lens steal the moment. - Day 3: Bedni Bugyal to Patar Nachauni
The trail gets serious here, with steeper climbs and thinner air. I kept stopping—not just to catch my breath, but to gawk at the snow-capped peaks creeping closer. There’s something about the silence up there that makes you feel like you’re intruding on nature’s private conversation. - Day 4: Patar Nachauni to Bhagwabasa
Bhagwabasa is where you feel the altitude’s bite. The landscape turns stark, almost moonlike, with rocks and snow dominating the scene. My group huddled in our tents that night, sharing nervous laughs about the final push to Roopkund. I barely slept, my mind buzzing with anticipation. - Day 5: Roopkund Lake & Back to Patar Nachauni
The climb to the lake is brutal—steep, slippery, and relentless. But when I finally reached Roopkund, time stopped. The lake was a mirror of turquoise, framed by jagged peaks, and there, at its edge, were the skeletons. Some were half-buried, others starkly visible, like they were frozen in a moment from centuries ago. I sat there, heart pounding, wondering who these people were. The descent back to Patar Nachauni felt like leaving a sacred place—my legs were jelly, but my soul was soaring. - Day 6: Back to Lohajung
Heading back was bittersweet. Every step away from the lake felt like leaving a piece of myself behind. When Lohajung’s rooftops came into view, I was exhausted but grateful, already planning my next Himalayan adventure.
The Skeletons: A Mystery That Haunts
Roopkund’s skeletons are what make this trek legendary. They date back to the 9th century, and the story is as chilling as the mountain air. Scientists think a freak hailstorm—imagine hailstones the size of golf balls—struck a group of pilgrims or traders, leaving fractures on their skulls. Some studies hint they weren’t even from the same ethnic group, which only deepens the intrigue. Who were they? What drove them to this remote lake?
Packing for the High Himalayas
Roopkund is no walk in the park, so pack smart. Here’s what saved me:
- Trekking boots: My trusty pair kept me steady on those rocky trails.
- Thermals & windproof jackets: Layers are your lifeline when the temperature nosedives.
- Sunscreen, sunglasses, lip balm: The sun at this altitude is a sneaky beast.
- Power bank & headlamp: No outlets in the wild, so come prepared.
- Water purification tablets: Clean water is non-negotiable.
- First-aid kit & meds: Altitude sickness can creep up, so pack painkillers and Diamox.
I learned the hard way about acclimatization. At Bedni Bugyal, I felt a dull headache creeping in, so I spent an extra day there, sipping hot soup and gazing at the stars. It was the best decision—listen to your body up there.
Trail Wisdom: Tips from My Trek
- Disconnect to connect: Past Wan village, your phone’s useless except as a camera. Tell your loved ones you’ll be off-grid. I forgot to warn my mom, and let’s just say she wasn’t thrilled.
- Cash only: ATMs are a myth beyond Kathgodam, so bring enough cash for snacks and emergencies.
- Beat the snow: Start your hikes early to avoid afternoon snowstorms. Trust me, you don’t want to be caught in one.
- Guides are gold: I went with a local guide who knew every trail and shared stories that brought the mountains to life. Don’t go solo—get a pro.
Roopkund isn’t just a trek; it’s a pilgrimage to a place where nature and history intertwine. Every aching muscle, every frosty breath, every moment of doubt was worth it for that first glimpse of the lake, for the weight of those ancient bones, for the feeling of standing somewhere timeless. This journey left me a little humbler, a little braver, and a lot more in love with the wild.
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